Two years ago as I neared the end of my Camino journey, I felt a mix of relief and sadness. I’d carried the dream of walking that pilgrim path for 12 years. When I accomplished that goal, there would be an absence in my life, a dream that had been realized. I’d also be relieved that what I’d set out to do, that plan I’d announced to the world, had been successfully completed and I didn’t have to keep walking when I grew weary.

On my 14th and final day of the Portuguese Coastal Camino, I had 16 miles to walk from Padron to Santiago.

I left the hotel at 9 a.m. in misty rain and walked out of the village to the greeting of roosters crowing, chickens clucking, dogs barking — all sounds that grounded me.

There was the sweet smell of freshly mowed grass and recently bailed hay. The fields and vineyards gave way to woodlands and that aromatic fragrance of the eucalyptus trees I’d come to love. My hips hurt from the weight of my backpack and my feet were swollen. My legs were scratched from briars with the frequent trips into the shelter of shrubs for bathroom breaks. Oh how glad I’d be to always have access to a real bathroom.

There were more people on the path now that I was closer to Santiago. It was comforting to be flowing in that group of pilgrims, now unafraid of getting lost. Two hours before I was scheduled to arrive at the cathedral, I met a man from California. It was nice to talk easily with a fellow American. We confessed how we were ready to be done, to walk across the Camino finish line.
“”My knees are hurting from all the downhill walking,” he said. “Even with these walking sticks.” He used them even on the flat ground as we followed the path near the highway. “And what’s with all the bread they serve in these places? I just want some rice.”
He was mid-thirties and worked for an IT company.
“I’m tired of getting lost,” I told him. “I’ve walked a lot more than 158 miles.”
He looked surprised and asked, “How did you get lost? The path is right here” he said and held out his phone. I explained that I’d purchased a SIM card but couldn’t get it to load. I only had access to the Camino app when I was in my hotel or cafes.
“Did you have your provider to unlock it so you could access wifi through your card?”
“No,” I told him. “I didn’t know I needed to do that.” I felt foolish and just shook my head. “I should have met you on my first day instead of my last.” We laughed and walked together for a few more miles then he walked ahead. Without the assurance of him following the steps shown on the app, I fell in behind a group of Spanish-speaking pilgrims to follow them until I saw the cathedral.
Finally, we made it into the old town. I needed to rest and gather myself before I walked into the plaza in front of the Cathedral of St James. I ordered a bottle of water and a soda and thought back over my 2 weeks as I sipped those refreshing liquids. Sitting at that cafe table, I watched the tourists mixed in with groups of pilgrims. Like a college graduate about to walk across a stage to receive her diploma, or a bride preparing to walk down the aisle, I was taking a deep breath before I walked into that place where I’d realize the dream I’d carried for so many years.
When I stepped into the plaza, tears rolled down my face and I was filled with gratitude. “God, you honored that desire of my heart. Thank you for seeing me through.” A moment of disappointment threatened as I watched other people celebrate in their group of fellow pilgrims. I was alone. But then I remembered that I had lots of people that had been cheering me on from afar. I asked a woman to take my picture in my victory pose. That photo would be etched in my mind as the reminder that I did it.

Later, I would frame my Compostela or certificate of completion with the scallop shell with the red Latin cross and hang it above my writing desk.
I’ll leave you with the last words of the Blessing for Departing Pilgrims that I was given by the Raleigh Chapter of American Pilgrims on the Camino:
May you discover that the destination is the journey itself
May you arrive safely at the end of your journey and return filled with renewed hope, faith, and joy
And may you discover that the true Camino begins at its end
Buen Camino!!!
